Motezza - Our home in Chianti
Greve in Chianti: History, sights and hidden treasures
All Motezza tours start from Greve. Most guests only see the parking lot and the piazza in the town itself. But it’s worth spending a few hours here before or after the tour, and this article explains why.
Historical background
The Chianti region was already inhabited in Etruscan and Roman times. Greve itself developed mainly during the Middle Ages. Greve lies at the intersection of three ancient roads: the Chiantigiana between Florence and Siena, the road leading to the Valdarno, and the one leading to the Val di Pesa. This made the town the regional marketplace.
Originally, Greve was merely the market settlement serving Montefioralle Castle on the hill above it. Over time, the relationship reversed: the market grew, while the castle lost its importance. Wine and olive oil were the main commodities traded, and the market is still held every Saturday.
Piazza Matteotti
The heart of Greve is Piazza Giacomo Matteotti. Its irregular triangular layout sets it apart from many other squares in Tuscany. Arcades frame the square; merchants once sheltered their goods beneath them, but today the space is home to shops, cafés, and wine stores.
In the center stands the statue of Giovanni da Verrazzano. The explorer was born around 1485 at the Castello di Verrazzano, his family’s castle on a hill overlooking the Greve Valley. It is located near Greti, two kilometers north of Greve on SR222, and another two kilometers uphill from there. In 1524, Verrazzano sailed along the Atlantic coast of North America on behalf of King Francis I and entered the bay of what is now New York on April 17, becoming the first European on record to do so. Today, the castle is a winery and privately owned; tours are available by appointment only.
The churches
At the southern end of the square stands the Church of Santa Croce. The current building dates from the 19th century, but the church itself is much older. Inside are a triptych by Bicci di Lorenzo and panels from the school of Fra Angelico.
Below Montefioralle lies the Pieve di San Cresci, a Romanesque church with a narthex and two biforia in its façade. From up there, the view stretches far across the hills.
Montefioralle
Three kilometers above Greve lies Montefioralle, one of the best-preserved medieval villages in Tuscany. The castle, for which Greve once served as a market town, has become a very peaceful place: narrow alleys, a ring of walls, and a twenty-minute walk around the village. Montefioralle is a member of the association “I Borghi più belli d’Italia.”.
In the Church of Santo Stefano—a Gothic structure with Baroque elements added during later renovations—hangs a late 13th-century painting of the Madonna and Child. On the main street stands a house that, according to tradition, belonged to the Vespucci family—identifiable only by the coat of arms above the door, depicting a wasp. Amerigo Vespucci himself was born in Florence in 1454, not here. The Americas are named after him.
A good three kilometers uphill on a paved road, with a parking lot at the entrance to town. As a stop on the way back from a hike, it’s hardly a detour.
Villa Vignamaggio
Villa Vignamaggio was built in the 14th century by the Gherardini family. It acquired its current Renaissance appearance in the 15th and 16th centuries under the Gherardi family, another family with a nearly identical name.
The villa is best known for a story that is likely untrue: Lisa Gherardini, the presumed model for Leonardo’s Mona Lisa, is said to have been born here. The dates, however, contradict this. The Gherardini family sold Vignamaggio in 1421, and Lisa was born in 1479—in Florence. The legend persists nonetheless, and the villa takes it in stride.
That doesn't make it any less worth seeing. The Italian-style garden, the vineyards and olive groves all around, and a Chianti Classico that ranks among the best in the region.
Greve is the place where all the best tours start, and where you'll be happy to return to in the evening.
Gerhard - Motezza - Greve in ChiantiWine and the Chianti Classico Wine Festival
Winegrowing is the economic backbone of Greve. The surrounding hills range in elevation from 250 to 600 meters, which is ideal for the Sangiovese grape—Chianti Classico must consist of at least 80 percent Sangiovese.
The Chianti Classico wine region is a defined territory of approximately 70,000 hectares between Florence and Siena. Greve is one of only four municipalities located entirely within this region. Of the eleven subzones, known as UGA, four are located within the municipality of Greve: Greve, Montefioralle, Lamole, and Panzano.
On the second weekend in September, Piazza Matteotti fills up with the booths of the Expo Chianti Classico. The fair has been held since 1970 and is the only one where producers from all the municipalities of the Chianti Classico region are represented. It runs for four days, from Thursday through Sunday.
The Museo del Vino on Piazza delle Cantine is housed in old vaulted cellars and displays tools and equipment used in winemaking, as well as an unusually large collection of corkscrews. A quick stop—be sure to check the opening hours beforehand.
Landscape and nature
The area around Greve is dotted with vineyards, olive groves, and cypress trees—just as one imagines Tuscany to be. Those who want to go higher should head east: Monte San Michele, at 892 meters, is the highest peak in the Monti del Chianti, located about eight kilometers from Greve and still within the town’s municipal boundaries. At the top, coniferous forests and meadows replace the vineyards, and the view stretches down on both sides—toward Chianti and the Valdarno.
Festivals and markets
- Weekly Market: Every Saturday from 8 a.m. to 1 p.m. in Piazza Matteotti—food, crafts, and clothing
- Il Pagliaio: Organic Market in the Piazza, every fourth Sunday of the month, spring through fall
- Festa delle Frittelle: Montefioralle, around March 19, St. Joseph’s Day. Rice fritters are fried in a pan two meters in diameter according to an old recipe—the village has been doing this since the late 1960s
- Antiques and Collectibles Fair: Easter Monday at Piazza Matteotti
- Festa della Stagion Bona: Panzano, always on April 25. A medieval reenactment of the feud between the Gherardini and the Firidolfi, featuring a parade, flag-wavers, and fireworks
- Greve in Fiore: Plant and Flower Market in the Piazza, first weekend in May
- I Profumi di Lamole: In late May or early June in Lamole, the village’s nine winemakers serve wine in the Piazzetta
- I Profumi di Lamole sotto le stelle: An evening event in August, starting at 6 p.m., featuring wines from Lamole
- Expo Chianti Classico: the second weekend in September in Piazza Matteotti, Thursday through Sunday
Dates are subject to change. For this year, it’s worth checking the Greve in Chianti municipality’s website.
Answered briefly
How do I get from Florence to Greve in Chianti?
On SR222, the Via Chiantigiana, just south of Florence. The route is well-signposted and winds through the heart of Chianti. From the city center, expect a drive of 40 to 50 minutes; from Firenze Sud, 30 to 40 minutes. However, the actual travel time is rarely exactly that, as you’ll likely stop along the way.
When does the Chianti Classico wine festival take place?
The fair is called Expo Chianti Classico and takes place every year on the second weekend of September in Piazza Matteotti, from Thursday through Sunday. It has been held since 1970 and is the only fair where producers from all municipalities in the Chianti Classico region are represented. The exact dates can be found at expochianticlassico.com.
What does Amerigo Vespucci have to do with Greve?
In Montefioralle, above Greve, there is a house that, according to tradition, belonged to the Vespucci family. It can be recognized by the wasp in the coat of arms above the door. Amerigo Vespucci himself was born in Florence in 1454. Locals sometimes claim he was born in Montefioralle, but that is not true.
Is it true that the Mona Lisa was born near Greve?
No, almost certainly not. Lisa Gherardini, the alleged model, was born in Florence in 1479. Although the Villa Vignamaggio near Greve once belonged to her family, they had sold it as early as 1421—fifty-eight years before Lisa’s birth. The villa is still worth a visit, though.
Where is the best place to park a motorcycle in Greve?
Free parking is available just outside the historic center on the main street. If you're on a motorcycle, you can almost always find a spot there. A note for Saturdays: Because of the market, Piazza Matteotti is closed to traffic and the ZTL is in effect, so you'll need to park outside and walk the last few meters.
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