This is how we overwinter our Enfield at Motezza
The Tuscan air is milder than in the Alps - but it is still humid. To ensure that our Classic 350 runs as smoothly after the break as it did on the first day, we take a structured approach. Here is our tried and tested procedure - clear, concise and no frills.
Brief overview
- Clean thoroughly & dry completely
- Wax/polish paint & chrome; polish aluminum housing by hand
- Battery on SAE connection; maintenance device via Smart socket on schedule
- Tank filled to the brim with stabilizer; E5 refuel
- Lubricate chain & joints
- Main stand & easy jacking up - both wheels free; tire pressure +0.2-0.3 bar
- Dehumidifying bag on the handlebars; breathable cover
1) Cleaning
Prewash & dirt down
Rinse off coarse dust and dirt with clear water. We work with soft sponges and brushes (rims/spokes) so that nothing gets scratched.
Degrease the chain first
We clean the chain before the rest of the bike so that no traces of grease run over the paintwork and chrome.
Dry thoroughly
With microfiber cloths and air flow (no hard pressure) - only dab electrical plug connections.
2) Conservation & care
We wax and polish all Paint and chrome parts. Unpainted metal surfaces, screws and edges are given a thin layer of corrosion protection - never on the brake disks. We treat rubber parts/seals lightly to keep them supple. Seat bench depending on the material.
- Wipe stains on chrome dry immediately
- Avoid harsh cleaners
- Remove fingerprints after polishing
3) Battery & conservation
Our Enfields have a SAE connection. We connect an intelligent trickle charger and control the charge via a Smart socket in the fixed program.
- Standard: every 14 days for 2 hours
- In heavy frost: 1 hour per week
- The maintenance device can also remain permanently connected - we prefer the timer
Notes: Observe the correct characteristic curve (12 V, lead-acid/AGM); never place the charger on live parts.
4) Tank & fuel
The Classic 350 is an injection engine. We fill the Tank full to the brim, dose Fuel stabilizer and leave the motor 5-10 minutes so that everything arrives in the system.
- We refuel E5; E10 is currently not available here.
- No winter short starts - this creates condensation in the oil.
- Oil change: strictly according to Service interval, not extra at the end of the season.
5) Chain & lubrication
Clean the chain (suitable cleaner, soft brush), allow to flash off and lubricate evenly with a spray suitable for O-/X-rings. Wipe off excess, check slack and adjust if necessary. Minimally oil Bowden cables, lever and stand joints.
6) Tire pressure & parking
Main stand & easy jacking up
We place the machine on the Main stand and they buck up easily, so that both wheels free are.
Raise tire pressure
+0.2 to +0.3 bar above the setpoint to prevent flat spots.
7) Pitch, dehumidification & cover
- Dry, airy, clean. No tight plastic tarpaulins directly on the motorcycle.
- Breathable cover use.
- Granulate dehumidification bag we hang on to the Handlebars, so that they draw air freely and do not come into contact with metal.
- Exhaust port Cover loosely (cloth). Remove before the spring start.
8) First start in spring
- Cover down, remove exhaust cloth
- Unplug charger
- Tire pressure to target
- Visual inspection: leaks, cables, tires, pads
- Gentle warm-up lap - everything feels alive again
FAQ
Why no winter short starts?
If you don't drive for a long time, the oil won't warm up and condensation remains in the system - neither the engine nor the exhaust like that.
E5 or E10 over the winter?
We fill up with E5. E10 is currently not available here. With stabilizer, E5 is ideal for the service life.
Oil change at the end of the season?
We are sticking to the regular service interval - no additional change at the end of the season.
Remove the battery or leave it on?
Thanks to the SAE connection, the battery can remain in the motorcycle. The trickle charger and smart timer ensure gentle maintenance.
